Hut-to-Hut Mountaineering Week in the Bernese Oberland, Swiss Alps

We meet at 17:00 in Saas Grund for a briefing and gear check.

Acclimatization and first summit! We have several peaks to choose from, with at least four over 4,000 meters and many more above 3,000 meters, all accessible from the valley. Although we’re still in Valais, this day plays a crucial role in preparing us for the rest of the week. We’ll spend the night in a high-altitude hut to further aid acclimatization.

Today is all about transitioning from Valais to the Bernese Alps and reaching Switzerland's highest alpine club hut. We’ll drive to Visp, park at the long-term parking, and board a train to Spiez, then onward to Grindelwald. From Grindelwald’s Terminal station, we’ll take the gondola to the Eiger Glacier station, and finally, a train through the Eiger itself to Jungfraujoch at 3,450m. From there, we’ll hike for about an hour to reach the Mönchsjoch Hut at 3,656m.

We’ll attempt either the Jungfrau (4,158m) or the Mönch (4,110m), both easily accessible from the hut. The Mönch’s climb is short but packed with adventure, featuring grade III rock, snow, ice sections, and an airy ridge to the summit. The Jungfrau climb is slightly longer and more complex. We start early, ascending its rocky east spur at daybreak, reaching the Rottalsattel (3,880m) before tackling a steep but manageable climb up the southern flank to the summit. Due to intense sun exposure, we’ll descend promptly and traverse the Kranzberg Glacier to complete our day. After nearly two nights at high elevation, we’ll make our way to the Konkordia Hut at 2,848m, an impressive and notorious ascent.

After a restful night at the relatively lower hut, we’ll be ready for our next adventure. Depending on conditions, we may climb the Grünegghorn (3,863m) or the Wyssnollen (3,583m) on our way to the Finsteraarhorn Hut at 3,050m. If conditions are excellent and the ridge between Grünegghorn and Grosses Grünhorn is covered with stable snow, we might add the Grosses Grünhorn (4,043m) to our achievements for the week.

Our final summit is the Finsteraarhorn (4,274m), the highest peak in the Bernese Alps. Although the climb is long, it’s not overly technical. Once we pass a few climbing sections above the Hugisattel (UIAA III), the route becomes exposed but straightforward. The view from the summit cross offers one of the most breathtaking panoramas in the Alps.

We’ll descend to the valley, with several exciting route options: via the Fiescher Glacier, the Aletsch Glacier, through the Lötschen Valley, or back to Grindelwald by train. Each descent is an adventure of its own. After returning our gear, our incredible journey comes to an end.