Ecuadorian volcanoes 12-day climbing trip

We’ll meet in Quito, Ecuador’s beautiful capital city. At an altitude of 2865 m/ 9400 ft it is the world´s second highest capital after La Paz, Bolivia.

We’ll start with our acclimatization program as soon as you step out of the plane. Then, we’ll have a gear check and afternoon briefing at the hotel.

The main purpose of our second day is to continue with the acclimatization process.

This is a great occasion to visit Otavalo, famous for its colorful sweaters.

Hike up Rucu Pichincha as part of our acclimatization program before tackling Ecuador’s giants.

Drive towards Cayambe, Ecuador’s third highest peak. Cayambe offers spectacular snow and ice climbing and intricate glacier travel.

We will stay in a mountain hut located at (4660 m /15,290 ft)

During this acclimatization day, we’ll work on glacier travel techniques.

The route isn’t technical but we will encounter many very large crevasses on our climb.

We start our climb with headlamps very early in the morning, a standard procedure of tropical high altitude climbing in Ecuador for firm snow conditions during our ascent and descent.

An exciting day, we’ll walk through some challenging glacier terrain that will take us to the summit, culminating with an exciting line along the glaciated edge of the volcano’s crater.

Finally, we will descend to our hut and possibly drive south to our next objective.

Our next objective will be Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s second highest peak and one of the most beautiful peaks in the Ecuadorian Andes, a perfect cone covered by glaciers and snowfields.

We will stop to rest at a 17th Century Hacienda on our way to Cotopaxi, a beautiful place to relax and enjoy views of Illiniza Sur and Cotopaxi.

Drive east into Cotopaxi National Park. Travel through pine forest to above treeline for a spectacular drive and a wide open view of Cotopaxi. The four wheel drive road is quite exciting taking us as high as 4572 m/15,000 ft.

From there, we’ll do a short hike that will take us to the Jose Ribas Hut, located at 4794 m/ 15,729 ft.

Again we will leave for the summit shortly after midnight for firm snow conditions. Challenging glacier terrain will take us to the base of the 400 foot wall Yanasacha, meaning “large black rock” in the native Quechua language, from were we head west up Cotopaxi`s upper glacier on 35 to 40 degree slopes to finally coronate the summit with striking views of Cotopaxi`s summit crater at sunrise.

The changes in color as dawn approaches will be a memorable experience of this day’s climb.

Return to hut.

Another rest day at the Hacienda before heading towards our last objective, Chimborazo. At an altitude of 6268 m/20,703 ft, it is Ecuador’s highest point.

Drive towards Chimborazo.

We will stay at the Whymper Hut at 5000 m/16,405 ft.

It will be a long summit day.

Climbers should be well acclimatized by now after several days above 4572m/15,000 ft and well conditioned after climbing two of Ecuador`s highest peaks. Chimborazo is a great challenge and a major peak. Lately the standard Whymper route has been out of shape due to dry seasons, so most likely we will take a more challenging line, located left of the Whymper.

Exciting ice and snow climbing will take us to the summit.

Down to the hut.

Drive back to Quito. Next day fly back home, at the earliest, or continue traveling in South America.