Climbing program to Mt. Alpamayo

Carlos, an IFMGA/UIAGM certified mountain guide, wants to take you on this 8-day climbing program to Mt. Alpamayo (5,947m / 19,511ft) in Cordillera Blanca, Peru!

8 Days

Jun - Aug

High

Intermediate

Description

Join me on this challenging 8-day climbing program in Mt Alpamayo (5,947m / 19,511ft)!

Located in the northern sector of the Cordillera Blanca, Mount Alpamayo is part of the Pucajirca massif and it was in 1966 that it was named by the German magazine “Alpinismus”as “The Most Beautiful Mountain in the World”.

This climbing experience is ideal for those people who are seeking technical challenge at a high altitude, so keep in mind that this mountaineering program is for experienced climbers only and all participants must be skilled in multi pitch alpine climbing.

During this 8-day adventure we will follow the “French Direct” route which means eight pitches climb on perfect snow and ice conditions; slopes between 50, 60, 65 and nearly 70 / 80 degrees (few steps) and ending on knife-edged summit corniced ridge.

This Peruvian mountain presents excellent conditions for alpine climbing and I will be happy to safely guide you in order to get to the summit in the best possible way. You will find a detailed itinerary below!

So if you are ready for this 8-day climbing program, request to book this trip and join me on this opportunity to discover the most beautiful mountain of the world!

Price includes

Guiding fee
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Transport during the trip
Porters

Itinerary

Day 0: La HUARAZ (3, 100m / 1o, 170ft).

Briefing to see the last details of the program with the designed Guide in your Hotel (approx. 2hrs); it has to be coordinated. Overnight in Hotel – Huaraz.

Day 1: HUARAZ – VAQUERÍA (3,650m / 11,975ft) – PARIA CAMP (3,800m / 12,467ft).

Day starts after breakfast, our vehicle will pick you up at your Hotel. The drive goes by the famous Valley of Llanganuco and then passes over the Andes by Portachuelo to the oriental side of the Cordillera Blanca and arriving to Vaqueria where the walk starts for another couple of hours to our first camping area. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Paria Camp.
Approximation drive:
Departure: 8am.
Distance: 115 km / 71mi.
Timing: 4h.
Activity details:
Departure: 12m.
Distance: 8.80 km / 5mi.
Altitude record: 3,800m / 12,467ft
Descent: 200m / 656ft.
Ascent: 350m / 492ft.
Timing: 3h.
Meals Include (Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 2: PARIA CAMP – PUNTA UNIÓN PASS (4,750m / 15,583ft) – ALPAMAYO BASE CAMPO (4,350m / 14,271ft).

The hike goes over the Andes again to return to occidental side of Cordillera Blanca through Punta Union pass and finishing the walk in the Alpamayo Base Camp surrounded by several impressive peaks including Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Pucajirca and Artesonraju. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Alpamayo Base Camp.
Activity details:
Departure: 8am.
Distance: 15.30km / 9mi.
Ascent: 950m / 3,116ft.
Descent: 400m / 1,312ft.
Altitude record: 4,750m / 15,583ft.
Terrain: bridlepath.
Slopes: 15° / 20° / 30°
Timing: 8h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 3: BASE CAMP – MORAINE CAMP (4,950m / 16,240ft) – BASE CAMP.

After breakfast our day starts quietly and with sun light we carry some of our climbing gear up to Moraine Camp and leave them stored in a Tent. Then return to Base Camp for the night. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Alpamayo Base Camp.
Activity details:
Departure: 9am.
Distance: 3.80km / 2mi (up and down).
Ascent: 600m / 1,968ft.
Descent: 600m / 1,968ft.
Altitude record: 4,950m / 16,240ft.
Terrain: moraine and rock.
Slopes: 20° / 30° / 35°.
Timing: 5h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 4: BASE CAMP – MORAINE CAMP (4,950m / 16,240ft).

After breakfast. We move to our first high camp with all our provisions at this day we are supported by our Porters to carry the food and collective equipment. The camp is near the edge of the glacier. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Moraine Camp.
Activity details:
Departure: 10am.
Distance: 1.90km / 1mi.
Ascent: 600m / 1,968ft.
Descent: No descent.
Altitude record: 4,950m / 16,240ft.
Terrain: moraine and rock.
Slopes: 20° / 30° / 35°.
Timing: 3 h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 5: CAMPO MORRENA – COL CAMP (5,450m / 17,880ft).

The day starts as usual after breakfast. We climb up to glacier camp it goes between moraine and glacier; first small part on moraine and then on glacier slopes; the most difficult part 50° to 60° two pitches climb. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Glacier Camp.
Activity details:
Departure: 9am.
Distance: 1.50km / 0.5mi.
Ascent: 500m / 1,640ft.
Descent: 30m / 98ft.
Altitude record: 5,450m / 17,880ft.
Terrain: rock, glacier and ice.
Slopes: 30° / 35° / 45° / 60°.
Timing: 4 / 5 h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 6: COL CAMP – ALPAMYO SUMMIT (5,947m / 19,511ft) – COL CAMP.

Starting with early light breakfast. The alpine climb starts, traversing the glacier to reach the bergschrund which is the base of Alpamayo´s southwest face. Our climb goes by the “French Direct” with slopes between 50, 60, 65 and nearly 70 / 80 degrees (few steps). After 8 pitches of climb we arrive on a knife-edged summit corniced ridge. Descend comes down by the same route and return to high cam. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Glacier Camp.
Activity details:
Departure: 3am.
Distance: 0.85km / 0.5mi.
Ascent: 455m / 1,492ft.
Descent: 455m / 1,492ft.
Altitude record: 5,947m / 19,511ft.
Terrain: glacier and ice.
Slopes: 30° / 45° / 65° / 70°-80° (few steps).
Timing: 8 /10 h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 7: COL CAMP - BASE CAMP.

After our second night we descend all the way down to base camp by the same route of ascent. The first part requires a couple of rappels and then all the way walk. Overnight in Camping Equipment – Base Camp.
Activity details:
Departure: 9am.
Distance: 3.40km / 2mi.
Ascent: 30m / 98ft.
Descent: 1,000m / 3,280ft.
Altitude record: 5,450m / 17,880ft.
Terrain: ice, glacier and rock.
Slopes: 30° / 35° / 45° / 60°.
Timing: 6 h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).

Day 8: CAMPO BASE – CASHAPAMPA (2,900m) – HUARAZ.

This is the last day of the program. We make an early morning departure already with light daypacks down to Cashapampa Village. All our heavy loads goes on pack animals. Then in our Private Vehicle head back to Huaraz. Overnight in Hotel – Huaraz.
Activity details:
Departure: 9am.
Distance: 22.48km / 13mi.
Ascent: relatively small slopes.
Descent: 1,450m / 4,757ft.
Altitude record: 4,350m / 14,271ft.
Terrain: bridlepath.
Slopes: 15° / 20° / 30°
Timing: 6 h.
Meals Include (Breakfast, Box Lunch, Reception & Dinner).
Approximation drive:
Departure: 3pm.
Distance: 91 km / 56mi.
Timing: 3h.

About the guide

Carlos

Mountain Guide

Carlos CALLUPE CARRERA in 2006 he became a full qualified Official Mountain Guide and certified by AGMP (Mountain Guide Association of Peru), USAGM (South American Union of Mountain Guides Associations) and UIAGM – IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations). Carlos has the highest level of classification as a Mountain Guide and the high level of training in all aspects of mountaineering and client care.

Carlos at 16 years old starts with his first experiences of guiding with his father, taking groups around of Cordillera Huayhuash. In 2000 he participated in a National Geographic Society expedition documentary called; “Sources of the Amazon River” and in 2004, 2005, 2010 and 2013; Carlos was part of few mountaineering documentary movies made by TV PERU (National Television of Peru) - “CHALLENGE IN THE ANDES”, 2011 – 2012 Carlos was part of the bisgest Mammut 150th Anniversary Project “150 PEAK PROJECT WORLD WIDE” and in 2017 participle as one of the leading guides of a reality series filmed in the Cordillera Blanca by Rabbit Films - You Tube Red called "THE ULTIMATE EXPEDITION".

Currently Carlos is a member of the Technical Commission of AGMP, Instructor and Teacher of technical training for UIAGM Guides and He guides groups in South American Countries. Carlos always focuses his profession to organize exclusive private tours with his personalized service that includes; PERU, ARGENTINA, BOLIVIA and ECUADOR.

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