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Climbing Mont Blanc in 3 days from the Italian side

Climbing Mont Blanc in 3 days from the Italian side
Mont Blanc from the Italian side
Mont Blanc from the Italian side
Mont Blanc from the Italian side
Mont Blanc from the Italian side

Join one of the IFMGA-certified guides in the Peakshunter team on this 3-day trip up to Mont Blanc summit. A program suitable for experienced mountaineers.

3 Days

Jun, Jul

Very high

Intermediate


Description

Today I’d like to invite you to reach the Mont Blanc via its Italian side. Due to the difficulties, it represents a very technical and very demanding challenge, reserved only to intermediate and expert mountaineers.

The ascent requires solid preparation and consolidated skills in hiking and great confidence in using crampons on steep.

This legendary route recalls the charm of the epic ascents, since it was walked by the first climbers in reaching the summit.

The normal Italian ascent itinerary is also known as La route des Aiguilles Grises or Pope Route. It is one of the most challenging ways to get to Mont Blanc, the main star in Europe.

I have planned this program only for people with some mountaineering background, such as using a rope, ice axe, and hiking with crampons (on all different kinds of terrains, with snow, ice or rock). In addition, you will need to be very fit. Take into account that climbing Mont Blanc from the Italian side is the hardest ascent option and you need to be properly acclimatized. Along the way, we must face an altitude change of 1800 meters as well as sharp ridges and glacier terrains. That is why a training test will be required for a better acclimatization and correct training with the Guide.

The normal Italian route also leads us across uncrowded trails because it is a seldom-attempted itinerary. The southern side of Mont Blanc is the wildest and most demanding route to reach the top of the mountain. However, the reward is not comparable to anything on earth.

The best months to enjoy this expedition is from June to the middle of July. In fact, this route has usually been accessible only in the first part of the summer when there is still enough snow coverage in the lower sections. I will take only 1 person with me in order to provide you a personalized and safe experience.

At the bottom of this description, you can find a sample itinerary of the trip. Please keep in mind that the program can suffer modifications according to the snow and weather conditions.

Please note that Mont Blanc is not suitable for beginners. Previous acclimatization and previous mountaineering experience are necessarily required.

So, if you want to join me in this 3-day adventure, do not hesitate and get in touch with me. Let’s reach the Mont Blanc summit through the Italian side, its most demanding and incredible route!

Price includes

  • Accommodation included
  • Guiding fee
  • Breakfast
  • Dinner
  • Mountain guide expenses
  • Rope

Price details

  • We take care of the overnights reservation.
  • We can offer extra services to support you for the planning of accommodations and logistics before and after the trip: these extra fees are not included and have to be paid on the spot.
  • PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:
  • Hiring of trekking poles - to be paid directly on the spot
  • Hiring of personal technical gear (helmet, harness, crampons, ice axe)
  • Mountaineering boots (to be rented, paid and collected by customer at rental shops in the area one day before the trip)
  • Extra meals, water and beverages/drinks for the clients and the Guide
  • Transportation to the starting point
  • Research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • Personal Insurance
  • Anything that is not mentioned under "Price Includes"

Itinerary

Day 1: Courmayeur - Gonella Hut

We will meet at the Skyway Mont Blanc cable car parking area. We will go to Val Veny by car (we leave one car at the parking lot). We recommend hiring a car and staying overnight in the area the day before the ascent (Courmayeur or Aosta).

We’ll start at the bottom of the Veny Valley where we’ll walk on a paved road until Combal Lake. From there we’ll climb the steep moraine towards the Miage basin. We’ll walk for about 2:30 hours on the glacier’s moraine. During the final stretch, we must face snow and ice terrain. The last part of the ascent, which takes place on a rocky equipped path (like a short via Ferrata), will take us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 m), where we’ll have dinner and sleep.

Drop: +1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours

Day 2: Summit Day

We’ll leave the hut by 1 am in order to attack the glacier. The extremely wild landscape stretches until the plateau under the Col de Bionnassay, which we’ll traverse towards the Col des Aiguille Grises.

From there, we’ll ascend the sharp and spectacular ridge with narrow stretches giving way to the wide slopes that take us to the summit of the Piton des Italiens. This is the most technical and demanding part of the route and we have to climb it in a very severe timetable, if we want to have enough time for the summit. Without further difficulties, we’ll reach the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, where our route joins the French Goûter route. From here we’ll pass by the Vallot Hut (4,362 m) and finally, along the amazing Arête des Bosses, we’ll reach the summit of Mont Blanc.

We’ll return down by the same route although it is often convenient to head to Goûter Hut and then to Les Houches, where you can catch the shuttle back to Courmayeur. In case of late time during the ascent or unsafe conditions on the way down, the descent could be done on the French side, and we may have extra costs for lifts, refuge, and transfer back to Val Veny.

In case of overnight staying on the French side, we have to add also the costs for the Guide assistance (1 extra day) and the accommodation fee for everyone.

Drop: +1,800 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-15 hours

 

Details

More info

  • Rules concerning the reservation and booking of huts are defined by the huts and can differ from one to other. Peakshunter Mountain Guides can support clients with information and mailing lists but WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PAYMENTS OR BOOKING CONFIRMATIONS. Neither are we responsible for the introduction of new rules concerning limitations or special permissions to be obtained before the trip. Peakshunter Mountain Guides will provide the information on the booking modality and will not be responsable for hut rules and general laws concerning the access to Mont Blanc area and glacier.

  • Mont Blanc ascents cannot be managed as a last minute booking. Reservations must be made at least 4 weeks prior to the beginning of the trip.- Research and rescue insurance with IFMGA coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days.

  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by they respective owners, without any liability attributable to the mountain guide.

Meeting point

Courmayeur (Veny Valley)

FAQs

What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?

Mont Blanc ascent requires a very good physical level and a very good previous experience on glaciers in mountaineering activities (in particular, confidence in progression with crampons on glacier areas and some climbing ability on rocky terrains, with snow and ice).

About your fitness, you should consider that it will be a very demanding ascent. We still recommend that you train seriously in the months leading up to the trip, so you can experience the adventure to the fullest.

How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?

To attempt the ascent of Mont Blanc you need a solid physical and technical preparation that is achieved by training consistently over many years. You should already have a good background and be familiar with the high altitude, the severe conditions of temperatures during the first hours of climbing, without light and on very impegnative terrain, very steep to hike even with crampons on. This means that you have had recent mountaineering experiences in which to practice.

The best preparation for mountain sports always involves a good amount of cardiovascular exercise (running, biking, mountain biking, etc.) and, whenever possible, long walks in the mountains even on challenging trails. Working out only at home or in the gym is not enough compared to an outdoor running or biking routine. If it becomes really difficult for you to go regularly in the mountains, the advice is still to walk uphill with a positive elevation gain of at least 1,000 meters. Also, training at altitude (at least above 3000 m) becomes essential, especially if overnight stays in a refuge are also planned.

Feel free to contact us, and we will be happy to recommend the best option for your level and training.

Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?

The loan of the shared safety equipment such as rope, ice screws, daisy chains, and carabiners.is included in the tariff: the Guide provides it on the day of departure.

The personal technical gear is NOT INCLUDED so you need to check and bring bring yours (helmet, harness, crampons, ice axe, trakking poles).

As well as the mountaineering clothing, including technical mountaineering boots, waterproof, with rigid soles, warm and comfortable (please avoid bringing new ones, if you have never used them before the ascent!). After your booking confirmation, we will send a complete and detailed list of recommended equipment and clothing and, if you need anything for rent, we will recommend some shops where you can hire the necessary gear. Boots renting is around 20-22€/day, and trekking poles are 8-10€/day.

Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?

Absolutely no porters are expected for the ascent to either Mont Blanc or Gran Paradiso. Each participant should bring a personal backpack and technical equipment, including thermos for tea/water and energy bars/dried fruit and energy food for the trip.

How will accommodation and meals be handled on the mountain?

We will take care of the reservations for all the overnight accommodations in half board formula, including breakfast and dinner, but NOT the beverages/drinks or extra meals.

For this reason, any other meals or beverages (water, beer, sparkling beverages, etc.) are NOT included and have to be covered by the customers directly on the spot and for Guide/Guides too.

What happens in the event of bad weather?

On mountains, weather and conditions can change unexpectedly and very fast, especially in recent years, due to the climate changes: in general, forecast and conditions have to be appropriate to try the attempt, but the final decision regarding the ascent belongs to the Guide, who is responsible to evaluate the risks and the safety conditions for all the team. Safety is our priority, both for the Guides and for the customers: if weather is not good and the forecast is not favorable for the attempt, we prefer to plan an alternative ascent to nearby mountains with better conditions and better chances for a safe summit attempt.

Please note that confirming the trip you are booking the professional’s availability for all the duration of the tour: this means that it will not be possible to cancel at last time, due to poor conditions or bad weather. The Guide fee could not be refunded. For this reason, in case the Mont Blanc is out of reach, we guarantee our availability to arrange an experience that lives up to your expectations. We knows very well and totally understand that this may be a frustrating outcome, however, safety is a top priority for our team of professionals, and every mountain has a lesson to teach to all climbers. Customers and the Guides safety is more important than any summit.

Some detailed alternatives to replace Mont Blanc attempt, in case of bad weather or restrictions to the climbing due to safety reasons, are listed in the options below:

  • “Monterosa 4K Seven Summits collection” (Pyramide Vincent, Balmenhorn, Schwarzhorn, Ludwigshöhe, Parrot, Zumstein, Signalkuppe/Punta Gnifetti) - 3 days
  • Pollux + Castor starting from Cervinia (overnight staying at refuge Guide del Cervino) - 3 days
  • Gran Paradiso and Tresenta summits (overnight staying at refuge Vittorio Emanuele) - 3 days

What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?

The maximum number of clients per single Guide is two, thus giving a ratio of 1:1. This is in order to ensure the safety during the trip and it is established by local regulations. Under any circumstances, we are not going to take more than 1 people for each guide.

If you are more than 1 person, we have more Guides available to undertake the adventure: we will be happy to support your group with other professionals of our team!

What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?

The ascent of Mont Blanc from the italian route can be planned during the Summer season, from the beginning of June until mid-July, in relation to the opening of the refuge and the improved general safety conditions related to snowfall and temperatures.

Can I join a group?

No, due to guide-to-client ratio (1:1), we can only accept private requests for the ascent. If you are more than 1, you necessary requires to have more than 1 Guide.

How can I reach the meeting point?

Depending on your country of origin, you can decide to arrive from:

  • Italy; the nearest airports are Turin Caselle or Milan Malpensa. Once you arrive at the airport, you can move to Courmayeur by bus (Flixbus and Arriva operate coach runs every day), by private transfer, or (better choice) by renting a car.
  • France or Switzerland; Geneva Airport (Switzerland) is the closest to Courmayeur (around 100km), so it only takes about 2 hr by bus. You can move to Aosta Valley by car, bus, or private transfer from Chamonix, passing through the Mont Blanc tunnel.

Also Lausanne Airport is the closest to Aosta (around 150km), so it only takes about 2hr 10 mins to drive by car or private transfer, passing through the Great St. Bernard Tunnel.

I am not sure I have the required skills. Do you suggest a program for beginners?

For beginners without any previous mountaineering experience, and for those who prefer a longer time for acclimatization and training before the Mont Blanc summit, we strongly recommend at least making the ascent of a technically easier 4000-meter peak, such as the Gran Paradiso or Capanna Margherita.

What additional costs should I consider?

The renting of the personal technical gear, trekking poles and boots is NOT included.

We will send you more details in case of need.

IMPORTANT!

In case the conditions (for weather or timing reasons) require the descent on the French side, the Guide will decide to descend along the route best suited to ensure safety (Gouter or Cosmiques route), with use of cable car for the descent to Chamonix. The return in this case will determine an additional cost of the lift tickets for the client and the Guide and the cost of the private transfer to Italy.

After the ascent, we generally have a light lunch to have something to eat together and a beer to celebrate the experience with the guide. The costs for the lunch and beverages are NOT included and have to be covered on the spots, sharing the guide’s fee between all the participants.

At what time does the trip start? At what time will we be back to the parking area?

The meeting with the Guide on the first day will be around 8:00/8:30 am at the parking area in Val Veny; please remember to check the bus timetable, in case you need to reach the meeting point by public transport. If you need a private transfer, please check it in advance; we can support you, but we need to know in advance of your time arrival in Aosta Valley. This extra service is NOT included and has to be covered on the spot by the customers.

Time back to the parking area on the 3rd day is expected around 12:00/12.30

What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?

We understand that finding the perfect place to stay is an essential part of your adventure experience. To help you with this, we’ve curated a list of three highly recommended hotels that offer comfort, convenience, and a touch of local charm. These accommodations are well-suited for adventurers looking to relax and rejuvenate after an exciting day of exploration
Hôtel Le Castillan Les Deux Alpes France
See rooms
Hotel Le Cairn Les Deux Alpes France
See rooms
Hotel des Neiges Les Deux Alpes France
See rooms

About the guide

Guide profile image

PeaksHunter

4.7

(237)

Mountain Guide

Founded in 2013 by Elis and Silvia, PEAKSHUNTER is a team of IFMGA-certified mountain guides.

Although we all have different backgrounds and experiences, we share the same goals and projects and, more than anything, love our job and share a deep passion for the mountains.

Professionalism and safety are our core values because we love our job and we are passionate about Mountain and Nature.
We are enthusiastic to share new adventures and guarantee the most memorable emotions to all our clients.
If you are interested in experience the beauty of Nature and the power of the Mountains, Peakshunter Mountain Guides will be happy to guide you! We want to provide you with intense emotions and want to be there to share them with you. We feel we've done our job when there are big, cheesy smiles on everybody's faces at the end of the day.

We want to build a strong, long-lasting relationship with our clients, based on the respect we feel for everyone who joins us in the exploration of this striking vertical world.

Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, Monterosa, Dufourspitze and Margherita Hut, Gran Paradiso, Breithorn, Castor and Pollux are only a few of several 4000 Alps summits next to the area we live and work: the beautiful little Aosta Valley region, close to French and Swiss borders and not far from Geneva, Milan and Turin international airports.

Realize your dreams, discovering breathtaking views or simply living an extraordinary day: you just need to use your imagination and we will realize your trip as you desire to live it!

Peakshunter Mountain Guides team will be happy to guide you, sharing adventures and being you companions, personal trainers, consultants and expertise supporters for all you need in planning the next Mountain dream!

Languages

Italian | French | English

Certificates

IFMGA


What people are saying about Explore-Share

Man

Climbing with guide Guillaume was absolutely a highlight of my 2-week Europe vacation. Originally, we were planning on climbing in the Calanques, but the park was closed due to wind and fire danger. Guillaume chose another amazing location (Pic de Bretagne) based on my climbing abilities and preferences and kindly offered train station pick-up and hotel drop off, which I appreciated very much. The multi-pitch route we did was not only fun but also the right amount of challenge, which I thoroughly enjoyed. The communication from the team (Gauthier) was prompt and clear—highly recommend!

Maxine

Luis Silva was a great climbing guide and belayer! He taught me how to do moves that were difficult and encouraged me to try routes that were challenging for me! Because of his encouragement, I managed to complete these routes! I really enjoyed the climbs and completed 8 routes in the Sesimbra/Azoia area. The weather was perfect, no direct sun and cool enough to enjoy the climbs. Explore-Share made booking an outdoor climbing experience in Lisbon extremely easy. Luis, our guide, was fantastic, and the platform’s organization was flawless.

Valeriya

You’re simply the best!!! :))) Explore-Share made everything easy and stress-free. Will definitely use again.

Joshua

We had Léo as a guide for our day climb in Fonty. We were blessed with a knowledgeable, warm, and instructive guide. Communication with Léo and Ivan was smooth and swift. Explore-Share was excellent in arranging everything for our day climb. The communication was quick, and the platform was easy to use, making our adventure stress-free.

Cami

Patrick was a great guide. He took us on an intermediate Via Ferrata at Passo Sella. Renato was quick to respond with any outreach on the Explore-Share platform. The booking process was straightforward, and once Patrick was confirmed, all went well. It was a wonderful experience, and I’d highly recommend the platform.

 

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